Skip to main content

Update: Line adapter for Ozito Blade Trimmer

An update on using ordinary trimmer line for the Ozito battery trimmer. I finally found a super easy and robust way to do so. No need for any 3D-printed adaptor, which is simply not strong enough to withstand the amount of force we are dealing with. You should be able to start immediately with common tools that you already have.

These are all the material/tools you need:

  • 2.4mm trimmer line
  • 0.75mm wire (just use any thin wire you have lying around)
  • flat nose plier
  • cutter (or scissors, to cut the trimmer line)
Cut off a length of trimmer line about 18cm long and fold in the middle. Cut off a length of wire about 8cm long and wrap around the trimmer line near the top, creating a loop. The wrap should be tight enough to just stop the trimmer lines from sliding, but you should still be able to reduce the size of the loop by pulling on the ends of the line.

The orientation of the wire wrap as shown in the photo above is important, because it prevents the wire from slipping off during operation. If you wrap the wire around the trimmer line, my experience is the wrap will slide off in operation no matter how tightly you think you have wrapped the wire due to the immense centrifugal force generated during operation.

Now place the loop around the blade holder where the plastic blade usually goes, and pull the ends of the trimmer line, thus causing the loop to tighten around the blade holder.

Finally, tighten the wrap by giving the ends of the wire a few twists with the plier. Straighten the trimmer lines by pulling them towards the mud guard and trim off any excess. 

Note that there is no need to straighten the trimmer lines before use. During operation, the immense centrifugal force will do the job for you.

Once you have done this once or twice, it takes only a minute to put a new length of trimmer wire on. In addition, unlike the plastic blade which randomly disconnects from its holder when it hits something hard and flies off, the trimmer line attached this way has always stayed on during my past year of use. Conclustion: it cuts way  better than the plastic blade, and requires less frequent replacement.

I have had this Ozito trimmer for over 5 years now, and it is still going strong. Over the past year, this new technique has giving it a new lease of life and makes it even easier to work with and cheaper to maintain!

PS: I have also tried using zip ties and found them to be unsuitable. 1) Trimmer lines are made with composite nylon, which makes them stronger and more resistant to abrasion. Zip ties simply don't have that kind of strength. 2) Thicker zip ties have about 5mm thickness, which does not fit into the blade holder. The thinner zip ties (eg. 2.5mm thickness) are simply to wimpy to be used for the task.


Popular posts from this blog

Adding "Stereo Mixer" to Windows 7 with Conexant sound card

This procedure worked for my laptop (Thinkpad E530) with a Conexant 20671 sound card, but I suspect it will work for other sound cards in the Conexant family. I was playing with CamStudio to do a video capture of a Flash-based cartoon so that I can put it on the WDTV media player and play it on the big screen in the living room for my kids. The video capture worked brilliantly, but to do a sound capture, I needed to do some hacking. Apparently, there was this recording device called "Stereo Mixer" that was pretty standard in the Windows XP days. This allowed you to capture whatever was played to the speaker in all its digital glory. Then under pressure from various organizations on the dark side of the force, Microsoft and soundcard makers starting disabling this wonderful feature from Windows Vista onwards. So after much Googling around, I found out that for most sound cards, the hardware feature is still there, just not enabled on the software side. Unfortunately, to

Attiny85 timer programming using Timer1

This Arduino sketch uses Timer1 to drive the LED blinker: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 /* * Program ATTiny85 to blink LED connected to PB1 at 1s interval. * Assumes ATTiny85 is running at 1MHz internal clock speed. */ #include <avr/io.h> #include <avr/wdt.h> #include <avr/sleep.h> #include <avr/interrupt.h> bool timer1 = false , led = true ; // Interrupt service routine for timer1 ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect) { timer1 = true ; } void setup() { // Setup output pins pinMode( 1 , OUTPUT); digitalWrite( 1 , led); set_sleep_mode(SLEEP_MODE_IDLE); // Setup timer1 to interrupt every second TCCR1 = 0 ; // Stop timer TCNT1 = 0 ; // Zero timer GTCCR = _BV(PSR1); // Reset prescaler OCR1A = 243 ; // T = prescaler / 1MHz = 0.004096s; OCR1A = (1s/T) - 1 = 243 OCR1C = 243 ; // Set to same value to reset timer1 to

Hacking an analog clock to sync with NTP - Part 5

This is how it looks after I have put everything together. The Arduino sketch is available here . The 2 jumper wires soldered to the clock mechanism are connected to pins D0 and D1 on the ESP-12 (in any order). When the device first boots up, it presents an access point which can be connected to via the PC or smartphone. Once connected, the captive portal redirects the web browser to the configuration page:     A custom field has been added to the WiFi configuration page to enter the current clock time in HHMMSS format. Try to set the clock time to as close to the current time as possible using the radial dial at the back of the clock so the clock will have less work to do catching up. In the config page, the HTML5 Geolocation API is also used to obtain your current location (so if your web browser asks if you would like to share your location, answer "yes"). This is then passed to the Google Time Zone API to obtain the time and DST offset of your time z