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Filament Joiner Part 2 (With Display and Knob)

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Thanks to the current corona-virus crisis, the parts I ordered for the filament joiner project were taking forever to arrive. But now that they have finally arrived, I can put them to good use.

These were the parts ordered:
0.96" OLED display SSD1306Rotary switch encoder KY-040 Here is the final circuit diagram:
The OLED display is connected to the SCK and SDA pins of the Nano (A2 and A3 respectively), and powered by 5V and GND.

The rotary switch encoder is connected as follows:
VCC => 5VGND = > GNDCLK => D9DT => D8SW => D2 My prototype board now looks like this:


The updated code for driving the knob and display is available in heater-with-display.ino in the Github repository.

We now have a fairly compact (about 7cm x 5cm) and independent filament joiner (no need to connect to PC) that is driven solely by a 12V power supply.

Here's how to use it to join printer filaments.


More usage details in my previous post.

3D Printer Filament Joiner

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I have been looking at various ways of joining 3D printing filaments.

One method involves running one end of a filament through a short PTFE tubing, melting it with a lighter or candle, retracting it back into the tubing and immediately plunging the filament to be fused into the tubing:


One problem with this method is that you can't really control the temperature at which you melt the filament, so you frequently end up with a brittle joint that breaks upon the slightest bend.

Aliexpress even sells a contraption that works along the same line. As it uses a lighter or candle as well, it suffers from the same weakness. I am not even sure why you need a special contraption when a short PTFE tubing will work just as well.

Another method involves using shrink tubing/aluminium foil, and a heat gun:


But a heat gun is rather expensive, so I wanted to explore other alternatives.

The candle + PTFE tubing method actually works quite well when you happen to melt it at the right temperature. It…